Epilogue: Stockholm Archipelago Ultraswimrun Challenge (SAUC) – The adventure of a lifetime!

– Within us all lives an adventurer. You just have to let him out.

The seed for swimrun adventures was planted already in 2009 when I started to train for my first ÖtillÖ race. Not really knowing how to prepare for this new challenge, my partner and I did as the originals, swimrun-exploring the islands in and around our summer-house along the course.

Overlooking the ÖtillÖ course.
Overlooking the ÖtillÖ course.

These training explo’s grew longer and later transformed into regular ultraswimrun adventures.

The conquering of the archipelago had just begun.

The experience of ÖtillÖ left a sweet aftertaste and I wanted more. To explore new parts of the vast archipelago and experience the amazing nature by own force became like a drug. No race-bib, pre-set route, starting-time or fee. Just you, your own strength and the unknown to conquer.

Overnight camping during a swimrun adventure
Overnight camping during a swimrun adventure

The Stockholm Archipelago Ultraswimrun Challenge (SAUC) 

The classical delimitation of the Stockholm archipelago lies in-between the northern island of Arholma and the southern island of Landsort, who each boasts its own big lighthouse. 

Nautical chart over Stockholm archipelago.
Nautical chart over Stockholm archipelago.
The different ferry routes in between Arholma - Landsort.
The different ferry routes and harbours in between Arholma – Landsort.

A group of friends and I had regularly started to explore untouched swimrun areas. The aim was to have fun of course and to get outside, but also to establish new swimrun-routes for others to try. The idea was simple. Identify and set a starting point (A) and finish point (B), and then let every challenger choose their own route in between. This way a challenger would race against the fastest known time (FKT) of that specific route and nothing else.

Whenever they felt like it. Free. On their own terms. 

While exploring, the idea of conquering the whole archipelago was launched. And why not? Its classical and historical delimitation between the two islands, each with its own lighthouse, made it perfect for a ultraswimrun adventure challenge and just like that, SAUC was born.

SAUC 2015
SAUC 2015

In 2015 we gave it a try, however ill-prepared, with poor timing, and only managed to secure a small safety boat the week before start. Despite this we decided to give it our best shot, and managed to swimrun more than half of the archipelago before having to abort for a number of reasons. For me personally, I wasn’t mentally present for such a tough challenge having just had twins 4 weeks before, and suffered an injury already on day 3, making it impossible to continue.

 

But now I had the experience. Now I had the know-how.

For this year’s attempt, unfortunately none from the original team was able to join. I thought long and hard about the idea and decided to give it a try anyway, alone. The logistical preparations were on point and I had secured the perfect big support-boat I needed. It was going to be captained by my father, with a life-time experience on the water, including a couple of years of off-shore racing. So I felt safe and confident being alone in the water.

The support boat carrying maritime signal flags.
The support boat carrying maritime signal flags.

Preparing gear on the boat.
Preparing gear on the boat.

I also had all the necessary gear, live-tested, including extras. The plan was to switch between the Colting wetsuit, used in cold and rough conditions, and the Camaro 2.0 used in warmer and speedy conditions. As a back-up I had an old full size head suit for really cold conditions, the one i used during last years Hellas Frostbite winter swimrun, and as it turns out, I was going to need it.

Training with the baby stroller.
Training with the baby stroller.

Training wise it wasn’t as good. With new-born twins I hadn’t really been able to do as much exercise as I had wanted to during the year. But on the upside, a constant state of fatigue and endless hours of walking with the baby stroller had strengthened my endurance capacity. Or at least so I hoped. And in a strange way I felt ready, perhaps more mentally than physically, and this state of mind was going to become crucial during the week to come.

 

Realisation

Overview over the Arholma - Landsort area.
Overview over the Arholma – Landsort area. Click on the picture to enlarge.

I planned for the whole expedition to take 6 days, averaging between 40-45 km per day, within a window of 12 hours, 07:00-19:00. I had a rough idea of the route I was going to follow and kept the final day open since I had no idea what it would be like to swim over Danziger Gatt, or how long it would take. There wasn’t really anyone to ask and the Internet came up blank. People don’t swim there since it’s a military area and that there are several water-ways for big passenger and cargo boats passing by on their way to Nynäshamn. On the map it looked like a 9-10 km swim, however in a straight line not taking wind, currents and waves into account.

The idea with the general 12 hour time set-up, was to enable me to have some R&R each night. I didn’t expect each day to last more than 7-8 hours of continued swimrunning and how wrong I was going to be. The forecast promised strong winds from the south and cold weather the whole week. Winds from the south meant swimming in head-wind and cold weather meant cold water.

The forecast turned out to be wrong. It got worse.

Day 1, Stage 1: Arholma Lighthouse – Blidö Stämmarsund

The start at Arholma. The Båk lighthouse.
The start at Arholma, Båk lighthouse.
SAUC DAY 1-1
Day 1 – stage 1 : Arholma – Blidö.

The weather was nice. Sunny but windy, why I decided to take a different route compared to last year’s attempt. During the day I had quite some traffic in the water and I had to wait a couple of times for really big boats to pass. The swims were long and quite cold. The runs pleasant and warm with a trillion flies. The stage landed on 40 km, 29 km run and 11 km swim, and took around 8 hours in total. The winds came up to about 6 m/s, as expected, and most of the day I swam with head or side wind.

 

big boats2
Big boats trafficking the water-way.

Swimming with heavy traffic.
Swimming with heavy traffic.

Day 2, Stage 2: Blidö Stämmarsund – Möja Långvik

The winds picked up and got stronger and stronger.
The winds picked up and got stronger and stronger.
The forecast changed and the winds picked up more than expected. 12 m/s.
Changed forecast. 12 m/s.
Day 2 - stage 2: Blidö - Möja.
Day 2 – stage 2: Blidö – Möja.

What started off as an OK day quickly took a turn for the worst. Forecasted 6 m /s winds suddenly became 8, then 12. A steady 12 with up to 15 m/s in the gusts. Head on. Improvise, adapt and overcome. I rerouted the planned course of the day and started island hopping to avoid the strong wind and waves.

At the end I couldn’t avoid it more and decided to go straight on. A real fight. The day landed on 42 km and 10 hours in total.

 

Breaking for lunch.
Breaking for lunch. Warm food was the highlight of the day.

The beauty of the archipelago outback. Hidden trails.
The beauty of the archipelago outback. Hidden trails.

Tired after a long day fighting.
Tired after a long day fighting.

Day 3, Stage 3: Möja Långvik – Runmarö Styrsvik

15 m/s in the gusts.
15 m/s in the gusts.

hardwaves
White sea.
Day 3 - stage 3: Möja - Runmarö
Day 3 – stage 3: Möja – Runmarö.

I guess the wind just decided to park itself around +12 m/s. It felt so-so having to start the day by jumping into cold angry water. The ocean was completely white. Instead of fighting the elements I decided to reroute, again, and instead try to surf the waves. This meant having to run longer and then to back-track-swim with the waves towards the designated island. At lunch I had a happy moment when I got to change to the southern map. The day finished after 42 km and 9 hours of swimrunning.

Checking the map before a run.
Checking the map before a run.

All these small hidden trails.
All these small hidden trails.

Half way through. Got to change to the 2nd map (and get some lunch).
Half way through. Got to change to the 2nd map (and get some lunch).

Day 4, Stage 4: Runmarö Styrsvik – Ornö Church

Lilla Gastholmsgrund, located in Kanholmsfjärden near Runmarö.
Lilla Gastholmsgrund, located in Kanholmsfjärden near Runmarö.
Day 4 - stage 4: Runmarö - Ornö.
Day 4 – stage 4: Runmarö – Ornö.

Felt strong this morning. Grew up in the area and more or less know the route by heart. In addition, Daniel Becker, the man with the plan showed up. A super morale booster. Daniel is the mega-grinder you need. A real Diesel truck! We were going to have to fight for it today. 12 m/s South and 11-13 degrees in the water and when we approached the Pig-Swim, it was just brutal. After 3 days of hard wind the waves were just big and everywhere, all at the same time. The runs went smooth. On the larger islands you run on actual roads, which is nice since it allows for you to open up your gait and really stretch out. In total we did 51 km in just around 11 hours.

P1110548-01
Easy running on beautiful trails. The map came in handy several times. There are a lot of unmarked small trails on the islands.

The swims were safe. Always with the support boat close by. However, the water was cold.
The swims were safe. Always with the support boat close by. The water was cold however.

Hot food for lunch. Such a treat. Carbs and fat!
Hot food for lunch. Such a treat. Carbs and fat!

Day 5, Stage 5: Ornö Church – Nåttarö South

Pulling out the war cry!
Pulling out the war cry!
Day 5 - stage 5: Ornö - Nåttarö.
Day 5 – stage 5: Ornö – Nåttarö.

I felt sore from yesterday’s mega grind. The body is tired now. I can feel it in the muscles. Daniel was happy as always and we got off to a good start. We had a good first 10 km run. I was really cold after the first swim and pushed on hard in the technical terrain to get the heat back. My body resisted and during a catastrophic jump I pulled a muscle in my front left thigh. Snap and pop at the same time. Realising the potential disaster I jumped and zombie-ran towards the next swim as fast as could, hoping that the really cold water would cool it off. Reaching the boat I put on some gauze bandage and some cool gel. Grabbed a quick coffee and some energy. Didn’t want to sit still too long and started walking. We started running again after a couple of kilometres, but it went slow. The day turned into a real fight and we reached Nåttarö later than expected. 41 km, mostly easy trail or road, took 7 hours and 30 minutes.

Several long cold swims. They were good since they kept my injury less swollen.
Several long cold swims. They were good since they kept my injury less swollen.

Daniel and I crossing over one of many hich and steep islands (red circle). Crossing islands like this really challenges your muscles.
Daniel and I crossing over one of many high and steep islands (red circle). Crossing islands like this really challenges your muscles.

Running and grinding with an injury too time. Lots of walking.
Running and grinding with an injury took time, including walking.

Day 6, Stage 6: Nåttarö South – Landsort Lighthouse

The last day.

Danziger Gatt. Mällsten island, not even half-way over, can be seen in the distant background to the right.
Danziger Gatt. Mällsten island, not even half-way over, can be seen in the distant background to the right.
2106 SAUC Arholma - Landsort full distance.
2016 SAUC Arholma – Landsort full distance.
Day 6 - stage 6 : Nåttarö - Landsort.
Day 6 – stage 6 : Nåttarö – Landsort.

I started at 06:00 since the forecast had promised a low 2 m/s head wind. I had been given a window of 4 hours before the wind was supposed to pick up, so I wanted to cover as much distance as possible. It was really cold. The weather station at Landsort said 12.8 degrees in the water, my watch measured 12. But with the wind and the waves constantly washing over me, it felt way colder. The light head-wind was manageable, but the previous day’s strong winds had stirred up the ocean, leaving ‘old sea’ behind i.e. residual waves and an irritating current from the south, making me drift a lot. It was also hard to navigate in this big open space not having any fixed points to lock on to when swimming, and the islands never seemed to come any closer. It was just mentally tiresome. The swim over Danziger Gatt turned out to be an approximate 13-14 km long exercise. I was sure glad when I reached shore, and cold. We had to seek shelter for me to get the heat going again and that took some time.

Once back in the game I opened up strong and ran through the islands with lightning speed, that is, until my front left thigh gave up again. After that I had to fight for every meter. Especially when the wind picked up and went back its normal 10 m/s.

The last couple of islands were just terrible. Very steep crevasse type with huge thorn bushes, making them nearly impossible to pass. Cold and tired I reached Landsort lighthouse after 12 hours and 40 km.

The goal of the week. The lighthouse at Landsort.

The goal of the week. The lighthouse at Landsort.

The whole challenge covered: 

6 days (57 hours)

254 kilometres

190 km run

64 km swim

85 islands

173 run & swim stages

1st ever finisher

#SAUCLEGEND

 

Then what about the future?

Next year we will try to have a go at it again. We have to. This adventure is just crazy cool. But it dependson what the final time periods for the archipelago bird and wildlife protection will be. 

/Nic